Hat-lining machine



(No Model.) 3 Sheets-Sheet 2.

' H. GHARMBURY.

HAT LINING MAUHINE.

' Patented Dec. 18, 1894.

mum 1 m UNITED STATES PATENT OFFroE.

HENRY OHARMBURY, OF NEWARK, NEW JERSEY.-

HAT-LINING MACHINE.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 531,098, dated December 18, 1 894.

I Application filed July 11,1891. Serial No- 399,262- (life model.)

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, HENRY CHARMBURY, a citlzen of'the United States, residing at New ark, in the county of Essex and State of New Jersey, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Hat-Lining Machines; and I do hereby declare the following to bea full, clear, and exact description of the invention, such as will enable others skilled in the art to which it appertains to make and use the same, reference being had to the accompanying drawings, and to letters and figures of reference marked thereon, which form a part of this specification.

The objects of this invention are to collect and secure the sewing machine head, the cutters for forming the oval tip of the hatlining and the attachment for presenting the said oval tip to the sewing machine head and said cutters, on one bed, detachable from the sewing machine table and thereby securing a more perfect adjustment and alignment of parts, to obtain a more permanentand durable adjustment of parts, to enable the sev eral attachments to be removed-from the said table without changing or'disturbing the relation of one part to the other or others, to render the machine more convenient in handling and to secure other advantages and re-. sults, some of which willbe more particularly referred to in connection with the descriptions of the working parts.

The invention consists in the improved hatlining machine and in the arrangements and.

combinations of parts substantially as will be hereinafter set forth and finally embodied in the clauses of the claim.

Referring to the accompanying drawings,

in which like letters and figures indicate corresponding parts in each of the views, Figure 1 is a perspective view showing the relative position of the oval mechanism, the cutting mechanism and the stitch forming mechanism, the lower part of the frame of the machine being omitted. Fig. 2 is a side view of the ovali attachment. Fig-3 is'a plan of the I same and Fig. at is a plan of a detachable bed plate for carrying the sewing machine head, oval'attachment andcutters. Fig. 5 is a deoval mechanism is unlocked and a certain sliding plate held in its unlocking position, and

Fig. 7 is a similar section, the holding spring being raised from its holding position.

In said drawings, 0. indicates an'ordinary sewing machine table providing bearings for the usual pedals, driving wheels, 8210. b is the bed-plate arranged on said table and detachable therefrom and providing bearings for the cutter mechanism, the oval attachment and the sewing machine head, all of which are detachable from said bed by means of screws but are intended to remain permanently in position on said bed plate. v

The construction of the sewing head, 0, is the one common in hat sewing or lining machines and the same is true of the oval cutters, c, with the exception that they are secured to the bed plate I) and not upon the table direct. The said bed plate, b, is provided with bearings 01, e, c, Fig. 4:, on which the sewing machine head and cutters are respectively secured. The oval attachment is also seated, indirectly, on bearings on the bed plate, the said bearings beingshown more clearly in Fig. 4, where the bed plate is provided with anextended arm, f, which pro-' videsa fulcrumal or. pivotal bearing, g, for a laterally adjustable carriage, h, for the oval formingmechanism.

Adjacent to the pivotal bearinggthe bed plate is provided with a bearing or slide-way, i, on which the said carriage bears as it vibrates from its position adjacent to the sewing mechanism to the position near the cutters, the distance of vibration being limited and controlled by stop-projections j, j, projecting upward from the bed-plate as indicated in Figs. t and 2.

The upper face of the carriage, h, is provided with a longitudinal slot and bearings for a longitudinally movable and graduated scale-plate, k, the purpose of which is to throw the oval mechanism'to or from the cutter so that the oval tip of the hat lining will be made larger or smaller by the cutters as may be desired, the size being determined by the graduation or scale marks, 'm, on'the' face of said scale plate, in connection with the index finger or pointer, n, on the carriage h. The positions of the scale and index may be reversed; that is to say, the scale may be on IOC the carriage and the pointer on what has been called the scale plate without departing from the invention. The index is on an adjustable plate, 71/, on the carriage, so that the tips may be accommodated to various styles of hats as will be understood by operators.

The scale plate, so called, is fixed in its relation to the carriage by a set screw 0 which slides in the slot p, Fig. 3 and enters a nut g on the hollow under side of the carriage, as in Figs. 6 and 7, so that, when the set-screw is turned in one direction, it clamps plate, 7t, to the carriage, h, so that it becomes virtually a part thereof and moves laterally therewith to carry the oval mechanism from the sewing mechanism to the cutters or vice versa. To hold the carriage, h, in proper operative relation to the sewing mechanism, I have provided a spring catch, r, consisting of a lever fulcrumed as indicated in Fig. 2, at s, and adapted to enter a hole t, Fig. 4, in the bed plate automatically under the pressure of the spring, a, and thus hold the catch and carriage against untimely lateral movement on the slide-way, t, as will be understood. By pressing the finger piece, a", downward, the catch projection is raised from holding rela tion to the bed plate and the carriage is then free to be moved laterally.

Upon the scale plate, It, is arranged another sliding plate, which I will call the carrier, 1;, on which is mounted the oval-forming mechanism w or the mechanism for turning the lining material in its relation to the cutters so that an oval tip will be out out, and, when used in connection with the sewing head, the said oval head will be turned and an oval line of stitching will be produced. The said carrier, 2), for the oval former, w, slides on the carriage scale plate in any suitable manner, but I prefer to provide the same with slide shafts or pins 3, 3, formed on or fixed to downward extensions 4, 4, of the carrier, 1), which said shafts or pins 3, 3, work in cars or bearings 5, 5, of the scale plate, 71",. A spring, 6, fastened to a bearing 7, of the carrier at one end and to the scale plate, 7c, at the other, as at 8, tends to hold the said carrier to its closest limit of movement toward the needle or the cutters and to thus hold the said oval forming mechanism where the smallest oval will be made, either by the needle or by the cutters. A graduated cam, 9, provided with a finger piece 10 and fulcrumed or pivoted on a pin 11 of the scale plate, serves to throw the sliding carrier and the oval-forming mechanism, to, carried thereby, away from the needle or the cutters, so that a larger line of stitches or a larger oval tip will be formed. This device is particularly useful Where I wish to sew two or more lines of stitches in uniting the tips to the sidedinings and to do so, without changing the relation of the carriage to its bearings, by simply turning the cam on'its center of movement. The said cam is preferably provided with three seats properly graduated at diiferent distances from the center of movement of the cam as shown.

When the cam bearing, 12, is in engagement with the co-operating bearing on the carrier, the oval-forming mechanism is nearest the needle and the smallest oval of stitching may thus be formed. By simply throwing the cam so that the next bearing, 13, is brought into play, the carrier is forced a certain definite distance back against the pressure of the spring and the oval forming mechanism is in position to form a second line of stitching. Another turn, in like manner, brings the hearing, 14, into play and thus a third line may be formed. The stepped cam thus enables the plurality of lines of stitching to be sewed with exact uniformity without care in adjusting the parts as will be readily understood.

The oval forming device, w, is similar in construction to those heretofore employed and it is therefore deemed unnecessary to enter into a specific description of the construction thereof.

It has been found desirable in the machines before in use, to prevent the said forming devices from turning while the tip material is being adjusted, and to bring thelonger diameter of the oval in proper alignment with the needle. A look has ordinarily been employed which has usually consisted of a sliding plate, 15, adapted to be moved into or from engage ment with the oval forming device, it having been held in looking engagement by the friction of the screw 16 which holds said sliding look upon the plate Q).

To hold the lock more certainly into looking engagement, when it is desired that the forming device should be locked andto prevent the lock from working into locking contact during the operation of the machine owing to the jarring or vibration of the machine, and thus preventing or obstructing a free turning, I have provided a spring lock, 17, which is preferably held in a position to engage the sliding locking plate, 15, by the screw, 16, of the carrier 12. Said spring is doubly bent as indicated in Figs. 2, 6 and 7, to form on the under side, a recess to receive a ridge or projection, 18, on said sliding plate, 15, the said recess being formed back from the extremity so that, when said spring engages the ridge of the sliding plate, it is first forced up, as in Fig. 7, by an incline on said sliding plate, or on the spring,17,or on both, as shown, and then, by its resilient quality, drops into plate-holding relation, the ridge lying in the recess, as shown in Fig. 6, and the bearing, 20, serving to prevent movement of the sliding plate toward the turning device. The incline or bearing, 19, at the extremity of the spring, when it bears endwise against the ridge of the sliding lock plate, holds the said lock plate into locking engagement with the turning'device, and when the sliding locking plate is forced back from said turning device and the ridge lies in the spring recess, then said locking plate is positively held away from the turning device, and there is no intert'erence of parts, as will be understood. The spring is waved or corrugated on continuous or gradually changing inclines to admit of the spring being raised automatically,

as the locking plate is forced by a straight movement from its locked to its unlocked positionor vice versa, when sufficient force of the hand is exerted.

Having thus described theinvention, What I claim as new is- 1. In a hat lining machine, the combination with the table, a sewing head, the ,oval forming device, and the cutters, of a bed plate having bearings d, e, e, and g and carrying said sewing head, oval turning device and cutters and holding the same in permanent relative position, the said bed plate being separable with said sewing head, cutters, and oval turning device from the table, substantially as set forth. 2. In combination in ahat lining machine,

s the bed plate, I), having bearings d, e, e, and

g, and carrying a cutter, and sewing head, and having an adjustable oval forming device bearing thereon and movable laterally from the cutters to the sewing head or vice versa,

the said oval forming device comprising a fulcrumed carriage, h, a longitudinally movable plate k, a carrier v and the oval forming mechanisms w, all arranged and combined substantially as and for the purposes set forth.

3. In combination with the oval-forming mechanisms, w, and the carrier 1), a lock plate, 15, adapted to slide to and from the said oval forming mechanisms to hold the same from turning 'and a spring catch to control the sliding, substantially as and for the purposes set forth.

4. The combination with the table, a, of a removable bed plate, I), carrying thereon a sewing head, a cutter and an oval forming device, the carriage for said oval forming device being fulcrumed, asat g, on an extended arm of said plate and having a sliding movement on the slideway, z', substantially as set forth.

In testimony that I claim the foregoing I have hereunto set my hand this 29th day of June, 1891.

' HENRY OHARMBURY, Witnesses:

CHARLES H. PELL, OSCAR A. MICHEL. 

